Ultimaker S5 3D Printer Review and S3 Specifications: A Buyer's Checklist for Engineering Teams

Every so often, a purchase order lands on my desk and I have to get it right without being an engineer. This is the checklist I wish someone had handed me before I bought an Ultimaker S5—and before I almost ordered an Ultimaker S3 instead.

I'm the office administrator for a 55-person manufacturing team. I manage about $1.2M in annual purchasing across 18 vendors. I report to operations and finance, so I care about performance and the paper trail. When I took over in 2020, I assumed the lowest quote was the right call. Three budget overruns later, I learned about total cost of ownership. That mindset turned me into the person who reads spec sheets at night and still knows the real decision isn't just the printer model.

When This Checklist Helps

Use this if you're choosing between the S5 and S3, or if you need to justify the purchase to operations and finance. It's not a beginner's guide to FDM. It's a practical buying process with the steps I'd repeat. There are seven steps, and one of them is almost always skipped.

1. Measure the actual part envelope first

Start with the biggest object anyone will actually print. Not the someday project. The real part that is waiting on a production line today. If it doesn't fit the build volume, the rest of the spec sheet doesn't matter.

It's tempting to think a bigger build volume is always better. It isn't. A bigger machine takes more floor space, costs more, and can be slower for small parts. Add 10-15 mm of clearance around your part for a brim or skirt, and then check the dimensions. We chose the S5 because one of our repeatable fixtures is 300 mm tall. The S5's 330 x 240 x 300 mm build volume fits it. The S3's 230 x 190 x 200 mm build volume would mean splitting the part into two pieces and bolting them together. That adds tolerance stack-up, labor, and another failure point. If your biggest part is under 200 mm and you don't need dual extrusion, the S3 may be the no-brainer. For us, the S5 was the only real option.

2. Check the specifications that affect repeatability

An Ultimaker S3 3D printer specifications list looks like this in practice: a 230 x 190 x 200 mm build volume, single print head, swappable print cores, a glass build plate, and network printing through Digital Factory. The S5 adds dual extrusion capability and a larger envelope: 330 x 240 x 300 mm. Both use the same Cura profiles and the same material ecosystem (as of January 2025, at least), which means a lower learning curve if your team already knows one of them.

Don't get too attached to the maximum layer resolution in the datasheet. We run the 0.4 mm print cores at 0.15 mm layer height for functional parts. Yes, the printer is capable of thinner layers, but you pay for it in time. What I cared about was consistent first layers. The auto bed leveling and swappable print cores are why the S5 has held up for us over hundreds of hours.

3. Plan the workflow before you plan the purchase

A printer is one piece of the workflow. You also need:

• Filament storage that keeps Nylon and PC dry
• A spare set of print cores (a clogged core is a production stop)
• A location with stable temperature and enough space for the machine
• An enclosure if you plan to print ABS or other high-temp materials
• Simple post-processing tools: supports removal, sanding, build plate cleaning

I almost forgot the spare print cores. The 0.4 mm core is the one we use every day, so we keep two on the shelf. It's a small line item, but it turns a multi-day wait into a 20-minute swap.

4. Demand a test print of your own part

Marketing videos and sample prints don't tell you how a machine handles your geometry. Send a file with overhangs, bridging, thin walls, and small text. Ask the supplier to slice it in Cura and share the project file. If they won't, that's a red flag. If they can't, you haven't actually evaluated the machine.

This is the step most people skip. I skipped it once and ended up with a printer that could make a benchy but not a usable thread. Ask for the .3mf file, not just a photo. Then you can see the wall count, infill, support settings, and build plate adhesion yourself.

And while you're reading reviews, keep the FTC Business Guidance on Advertising in mind: claims have to be truthful and substantiated. A review that says 'perfect first layer' without showing the settings and the print result isn't substantiated. Ask for data.

5. Compare it to the rest of the shop, not to other 3D printers

This is where I had to unlearn something. I first assumed 3D printing would eventually replace some parts we sent out for CNC milling. It doesn't. If a part needs aluminum or isotropic strength, an FDM thermoplastic part won't cut it. We still send metal brackets to a CNC milling Madison WI shop we've used for years. The Ultimaker is for jigs, fixtures, enclosures, and prototypes—not for metal parts.

The same applies to 2D flat work. A CO2 laser work cell is still the right tool for cutting and engraving acrylic, wood, and cardboard. It's fast, precise, and doesn't care about layer lines. Those tools aren't competitors to an FDM printer. If someone tells you one 3D printer can replace all of them, smile and keep your wallet closed.

6. Calculate three-year total cost of ownership

The sticker price is maybe 60% of the story. I estimate our S5's three-year cost as roughly 1.8x the purchase price once I include filament, print cores, maintenance, and operator training. We also budget for occasional failed prints. That's normal. If you expect 100% success, you'll be disappointed.

Early on, I got burned by a vendor who couldn't provide proper invoicing. That cost us $2,400 in rejected expense reports. For equipment, the equivalent is a vendor who can't give clear lead times or a plain-language support contract. Get both in writing before you sign the PO.

Be careful with material claims, too. If you buy 'compostable' filament, ask for the certification. Per the FTC Green Guides, environmental claims need substantiation. A label without a certificate isn't enough.

7. Set up a 30-day pilot before the machine arrives

The purchase isn't finished when the PO is approved. Define three real parts to print in the first 30 days. Decide what 'good' looks like: dimension, surface finish, time per part, failure rate. During our pilot, one of our engineers printed a bracket he normally made from metal. It held fine for the light load it had to carry. That was the moment I stopped second-guessing. Until then, I kept wondering if I should've bought a laser cutter instead.

Common Mistakes I'd Rather You Avoid

Trusting the maximum spec

A printer can often do more than it can do reliably, day after day. Build your purchasing decision around the repeatable spec you need for 80% of your parts.

Skipping the support test

Call the vendor before you order. Ask how long a replacement print core takes. If you're waiting on hold for 25 minutes on the sales call, imagine a production stoppage later. It took me two years and a lot of vendors to understand that support is part of the product, not an add-on.

Forgetting the cost of training

Even a well-known machine like the S5 requires someone to learn Cura well. Budget a day of official training, plus another day for your team to test settings.

Bottom line: the Ultimaker S5 is a workhorse, not a miracle. The S3 is a solid choice for smaller parts. But the purchase decision starts with your parts, then gets filtered through workflow, support, and total cost. If you do those checks in order, you'll probably make the right call. You'll also be the buyer who knows the difference between a pretty print and a repeatable process.